By Kathy Chouteau
Ulysses is a name donned by both an Irish protagonist and an American president, but Ulises in Richmond sells some of the tastiest Mexican food around from the Carnitas El Canelo family food truck on 23rd Street.
Carnitas El Canelo started as a family business during COVID in a Richmond home run by Ulises Graciano, his mother, Guadalupe Garcia, father, Odile Graciano, and two brothers, Edwin and Jonathan, using recipes stemming from his father’s roots in Puebla, Mexico and polished by his mother. Their food was well received, so the family saved up and purchased a food truck, which opened four months ago on 23rd Street in Richmond.
Both the family’s home-based business and Carnitas El Canelo food truck are currently open for service.
During the COVID days, the family noticed that they couldn’t find a Cemita de Carnitas Puebla-style sandwich anywhere—with bread resembling a hamburger bun—so Ulises said his parents were like, “Let’s start selling it.” Ulises shared that a lot of their clients tell them they don’t see food like that around here and that they’d have to go to LA to find it.
And so, the family began offering Cemita de Carnitas and other menu items from their home and listing it on Facebook Marketplace. People took notice, including the San Francsico Chronicle, which called the family’s carnitas “the best in all of the Bay Area.”
Ulises said that, following the Chronicle’s high praise, people traveled from as far away as Santa Rosa and Livermore to order their carnitas, which remain their best-selling meat by the pound, available in a variety of dishes including cemitas, tacos, burritos, tortas and quesadillas.
The Standard had a chance to taste the Cemita de Carnitas with carnitas, queso, “green gold”—a.k.a. avocados—seasonings, and the special bun. It was incredibly tasty, as were the Quesadilla with Huitlacoche and Taco de Carnitas. Various menu items are available to be ordered as desired, such as with different meats, pumpkin blossoms, grasshoppers (chapulines), corn smut (huitlacoche), etc., with the huitlacoche and pumpkin blossoms being especially touted by Ulises. The food truck also features blue corn tortillas made by hand, red and green salsa with a spicy kick, and a variety of agua fresca flavors.
Patrons will find the food truck offers a variety of traditional options courtesy of Puebla, as well as other selections better known on Mexican menus in the U.S. such as Quesabirria. While his father brings food industry experience to the table from his years in Mexico, Ulises said, “My mom turns the flavor. She’s definitely the one who puts her part in most of the dishes.” He added that, together, his parents are the “pillars” who steer the whole family business.
As for the family’s one common ingredient? Clearly, their food’s special sauce is love.
Find the Carnitas El Canelo food truck at 23rd Street and Roosevelt Ave. in Richmond, open every day from 12-9 p.m. Check out their home-based offerings on Saturdays and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. at 684 Turpin Ct. in Richmond. Catering and delivery are available. Find them on Instagram. Questions? Contact 510-369-9034.
